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While researching what to do in London, like most big cities, I made a big list of must-see sights.  However, my husband and I found ourselves with less than a day to explore the actual city of London.  We didn’t feel like we had enough time to use the discount city pass or spend a large chunk of time in one venue. We decided to just wander around the city and ‘see everything’.  Thus, began our “what not to do in London” list.

In Rome, we spent the day wandering and it was lovely!  The sights are mostly free to see and enter.  Churches, water fountains, plazas, statues, and the Pantheon are all free and easy access.  They are within the restricted driving zone anyway so walking and wandering was the perfect way to see the historic city. 

We also loved walking around Edinburgh in Scotland, Kyoto in Japan and    Munich in Germany.

Why London is different

London is a whole different animal.  Wandering just to see the sights for less than a day was a very unfulfilling way to see this city.  

The main sights in London are spread throughout the city.  The rest of the city is just a busy downtown.  The Metro is easy to use and connects everything, but riding underground doesn’t give a feel for the city like wandering the streets of Rome does.

Most every sight costs money in London.  Even the churches.  My husband lived in Germany for 5 years and doesn’t ever remember having to pay to get into a church, so with Westminster Abbey being $36 for one person we felt a bit out of our league.  Without a discount city pass or tourist card, the prices can add up quickly.  

What Not to Do in London

Here are the mistakes we made in London. I hope it helps you know what to do in Londonso your trip is more satisfying  than ours!

1. Don’t Lose Too Many pounds

Don’t lose your pounds here, and I’m not talking about your weight!   In England, the Pound and the Pence are the currency.  After trading in your American dollar for a fee, you will continue to spend like crazy here.  London is a big city and everything will cost you.  While the tube has reasonable rates for the tourists, you can only get so far in each zone.  Getting to and from the Airport the rates are higher.

Don’t be dupped! Budget enough to visit London.

Entrance fees to most of the tourist sites are some of the highest we’ve seen.  Unlike other parts of Europe, you have to pay to get into churches as well.

The Heathrow airport has the highest taxes in the world.  Stand-by travelers often fly into London and home from another airport to avoid the outrageous fee.  (Read More on Traveling Standby Internationally) Flying from Heathrow is what not to do in London. 

2. Don’t worry about Being Late to the Changing of the Guard at Buckingham Palace.

Every day there is a changing of the guard ceremony in front of Buckingham Palace.  It typically starts at 11 (but it is variable so check here )  We were advised to arrive 45 minutes early for good seats.

We arrived 15 minutes early and there are literally no ‘seats’.  Everyone is standing pressed up to a gate outside the Palace or crowded on the middle island with a statue.

Once the ‘changing of the guard’ starts, a small parade of soldiers arrive with horses and a band.  They go behind the gate and nothing happens for a long time.  Everytime soldiers would march around, I would get excited, but literally, nothing significant happened.

Crowds gather at the center statue in front of Buckingham Palace in London

The bands began to play music.  Some popular songs, some classical.  The music lasted for 30 minutes.  At this point, our standing legs gave out and we had to walk away before the ceremony was ended.  Not sure if the ending was worth waiting around for, so let me know.

All I know is I could’ve done with about 15 minutes of seeing the soldiers, the palace and the grounds and park around.  The standing around was hot and exhausting for very little excitement. A lot of Pomp and Circumstance, for very little movement.  

3. Don’t Go to the Tate Museum of Modern Art.

It’s free for a reason. Unless you are a true art lover, this is a must-skip.  It is huge and difficult to navigate.  The rooms the docent recommended to us showed dark and ominous art. If you’re wondering what not to do in London, this is definitely it. 

Globe Theater, London
The Tate Museum is right by the Globe Theater, but not worth a stop.

4. Don’t shop in Harrods if you are a Budget Traveler.

Having a cloaked and gloved gentleman open the doors for me should have been my first clue that this wasn’t the place for budget-friendly shopping!  I will say it was interesting to see such a huge, all-inclusive and beautifully displayed shopping center.  But we usually don’t shop much on our trips, so  the prices didn’t justify spending much money there.

5. Don’t order too many Fish ‘n Chips.

A woman eats Fish and Chips in London, Britain, United Kingdom

Even with a big appetite after a long day of walking, there is only so much grease and fish one can consume.  One order should be fine for 2 people!

6. Don’t go to Piccadilly Circus without a purpose.

We wandered around wondering what we were supposed to be looking at.  It is just like Times Square, probably more interesting at night and most likely fantastic for watching shows.  But there is really nothing much to see if you are just passing through.

Everybodys Talking about Jamie in Picadilly Circus, London
I found my name in Picadilly Circus, but not much else!

7. Don’t Drive in the Congested Charge Zone.

In specified areas, you will be charged 14 pounds to drive during the daytime hours.  If you aren’t registered, there is a a fee from the rental car to pay even more.  Use the Tube to get in and out of the congested area.

Don’t drive anywhere when you have no wi-fi to show traffic flow. It took us 2 hours and 45 minutes to travel what should have been a 45-minute drive.  Luckily, we planned extra time and our flight was delayed, so it worked out!

8. Don’t Pay Full Price for Entrance Fees.

We learned halfway through our day in London that you can use your travelcard (unlimited metro access) to get 2 people in for the price of 1 at many of the main attractions!

Or if it’s cost effective buy a London Pass and see as many attractions as you want. 

St. Paul's view from the Dome, London
The London City view from St. Paul’s Dome was stunning. Pay 1/2 price with a travelcard and printed voucher!

9. Don’t plan a Quick Stop at Westminster Abbey.

Westminster Abbey line in the front entrance in London
Look at that line! This was only 30 minutes past opening!

Westminster Abbey is quite the wait!  With less than a day, we didn’t have time to stand around, so we had to miss this great sight.  Be the first visitors there or plan on a wait to get in.

Another option for a church in London is St. Pauls.  This Church is half the cost, plus you get a nice city view from the top of the dome.

10. Don’t visit London while Big Ben is Under Construction

Big Ben Under Construction, London
Our view of the most iconic London site. June 2018

Disappointing to say the least.  In Germany, they had the decency to cover the construction with a canvas photo so you could pretend to see the sight. 

While this one is not under our control, researching in advance what not to do in London would be a good idea. 

What to Do in London to enjoy your stay

If I were to see London again, I would buy the 3-day London Pass and actually go into all the sights.  Plan on a busy city with lots of expenses if you really want to see everything.  

That being said, I loved our days in the countryside of England and would definitely recommend a visit to the Cotswolds {Coming Soon}.

Read about Driving in the UK here. {Coming Soon}

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2 Comments

  1. Just came across your site. My husband is a pilot also and we too have lots of non-rev experience. We went to London in 2019 and were also bummed to not see Big Ben or the Parliament building under all the scaffolding. We were actually surprised at how much was free because all of the museums seemed to be. The British Museum and the V&A were worth a visit for sure and were both free. But, like the Louvre, you’ll never have time (or energy) to get through them completely. We also were advised to attend a church service to see Westminster for free and it worked beautifully and was a cool experience. We attended an organ recital there as well (I think that was free too?).

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